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THE
MAIL ON SUNDAY |
Copyright
2005 Associated Newspapers Ltd. |
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Romania's Danube Delta is the perfect destination for nature-lovers with a lust for life, says Ella Windsor A mirrored highway of water stretches ahead, amid willows and clusters of cows. Dotting the route are navigational signposts and speed limits and yet we are the only traffic on Romania's Danube Delta until our little speedboat stops to hear an orchestra of birds. Since the overthrow of crazed Communist despot Nicolai Ceausescu in 1989, Romania has been on the rise as a tourist destination. As the country prepares to join the EU in 2007, a surge of attractive spas and resorts are springing up throughout its vast and varied landscapes. Romania, half the size of France, sits between Bulgaria and the Ukraine on the edge of eastern Europe, the Black Sea swabbing its eastern coastline. One-third of the country is mountainous, comprising regions as stunning as Transylvania, with its wooded hills, bear and buffalo. The flat land of the Danube Delta is the other extreme. Opening out into the Black Sea, the wetland's constantly changing features make accurate mapping of the coastline almost impossible. Named a World Heritage site and a 'man and biosphere' reserve, which encourages sustainable use of a conservation area, the delta boasts the largest reed bed in the world, and is home to more than 300 bird species, 1,200 types of plant and 60 varieties of fish. Delta Nature Resort's new luxury accommodation, Feathers, consists of 32 villas and a clubhouse, perched a few strides away from the water. With 24-hour fishing and bird-watching facilities, it is a haven for holidaying nature-lovers. Telescopes await eager 'twitchers' on the breakfast terrace before the day's boat trips deep into the delta, where you can fish for carp and sturgeon or spot pelicans and whopper swans. Catering to all age groups, numerous activities are available, even though the site itself is remote. Owner Diwaker Singh was encouraged by his own two sons to develop the waterside resort among other Romanian projects, including a spa, a buffalo farm and a stud farm hotel in Transylvania. Singh already has plans to build stables at Feathers so riders can take advantage of spirited Romanian horses. There are horse-and-cart rides on offer, as well as bird-spotting, fishing, canoeing and visits to local villages. A number of Lipovans, descendants of an orthodox sect which emigrated from Russia in the late-19th century, contribute to the delta's roving population. Nomads with astonishing survival skills, who drink a distinctive treble-distilled "palinca", a kind of plum schnapps, Lipovans are friendly, hospitable to visitors and happy to give them a glimpse of their lifestyle. A visit to a Lipovan community could mean anything from receiving a poppy bouquet to sampling traditional Romanian cuisine. If the latter, don't be surprised to be served nearly every fish in the delta in one, ten-course meal, and, indeed, the lethal palinca. If you prefer wine, you'll be just as satisfied; Romanian grapes are superb, and Feathers has its own stock of fabulous vintages among its extensive dining menus. Since Singh employs an Indian head chef, there's more than just fish on the resort's menu. It's divided between European, traditional and Indian cuisine. In Romania, caviar is also a must. Coming straight from Black Sea sturgeons, it's perfect with palinca. You can even visit the local fish farms for extra caviar know-how. It's worth experiencing the local entertainment, too. Romanian folk dancing is a strong tradition, reflecting almost every cultural transition the country has been through: pagan two-faced masks, German waistcoats, eastern European aprons and Latin zest. If you're lucky enough to watch the dancers at Feathers, expect the merriment to last way past dessert. Typically, musicians, armed with accordions, fiddles and often a 20-pipe pan-flute, congregate on the patio beside the clubhouse at sunset. They serenade the guests as drinks are served. The assembly then moves into the dining room and a score of dancers appear. As the volume of food increases with every course, so does the stamping and piping. The dances, both rigorous and interminable, are a sort of reel/Riverdance cross. There is a lot of whistling and slapping, and you soon find yourself leaving your food and joining in. It's a relief to hit the quiet of your villa at the end of it all. Each is a suite with a double bedroom, bathroom and sitting room, kitted out with TV and minibar. The floors are laid in wooden strips and the design is simple; sofas and beds are low and white. Each grass-coloured wooden villa has a private terrace with big easy chairs for evening drinks and watching the delta sunset. On the grass between each terrace and the water sit wooden pavilions for languid couples or keen fishermen. The water of the delta is the purest in Europe because the reeds filter it clean. Not only is it a source of fantastic drinking water for visitors, it ensures healthy spas and refreshing swimming opportunities. Year-round Romanian resorts, spas and farms provide natural incentives for travellers. Add some traditional folkloric entertainment and visits here are unlikely to leave you disappointed. Visit www.deltaresort.com. SIX OF THE BEST:
BEST ACCESSORY
BEST BIRD-SPOTTING
BEST VIEWS
BEST SOUVENIR
BEST DELICACY
BEST WORK OF ART GETTING THERE: The main airport in Romania is Bucharest, served from Gatwick and Heathrow by British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com), from Pounds 180 return, and from Heathrow by the Romanian national airline, Tarom (020 7224 3693; www.tarom.ro), from Pounds 139 return. By rail from Bucharest to the Danube Delta, take the Blue Arrow Services train to Tulcea (around a three-hour journey).
Staying at Feathers at the Delta Nature Resort (08700 682 798) costs from
h150 (Pounds 100) per person per night on a b&b basis.
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