COUNTRY LIFE
Striking a Chord






© 2005 Country Life
May 12, 2005









May blossoms and brings a taste of the classics: four concerts at Garsington, a single Spring tease 'Prom' and, the same day, May 19, the start of the famous Glyndebourne Festival Opera. This is its 70th anniversary, as explored by John Naughtie in a commemorative programme, First Term at Glyndebourne, which can be heard on the BBC website and will be broadcast later this year. Like Garsington, Glyndebourne bases itself on the lawn of the house it is named after, and although I have not yet seen the water gardens of Garsington, I have had the chance to sit and literally soak up Glyndebourne's lawn on my only visit, which was to hear Le Comte Ory.

Bernard Levin might have sympahised. As he says in his book Conducted Tour: 'From the first, I have refused to take a picnic, on the ground that to do so in the English summer is to invite condign punishment for hubris.' Had I been party to his wisdom I might not have taken one myself, but on the insistence of the friends with whom I went, Glyndebourne regulars all, we took a hamper so stuffed with delights I am not sure what ended up more uncomfortable - the grip of my new dress or the wetness of its seat.

I had bought just about the straightest, most rigid, formal, but floral dress, just for the occasion. It was also more or less a first date. My date, as well as an older musician friend of his who was an expert hamper- and opera-picker, told me with so much glee of the elegance of Glyndebourne (black tie by day) that I almost did not take them seriously. Finally, my date had to march me to a dress shop the day before and together we agreed on the formal, but floral, apparel.

By the end I think I must have been so anxious about my dress (whether it would even remain a dress or glue itself in layers to my legs when I stood up) that I do not remember much of the opera, except for some remote-control sheep and the oranges which tipped from a bosom to thump to a heavy grass grave. As it is, I find that sandwiches, like chips, are best soggy, so our picnic was probably the best bit.

To Aldeburgh, perhaps the smallest festival city, and one I would like to recommend for all its unlikeliness. I went to Aldeburgh with the Almeida Theatre one summer to gain experience in stage management on the set of Kantan, a modern opera in Japanese style, English verse and tin tune (distinctive gong prompts marked the beat between scenes). For all its elusive musical take, it was lost on our elderly viewers, who did not flinch as it finished until the cast took their bow. Then, in fact, they clapped themselves awake. Perhaps they had taken it in after all, in their own elusive way, through closed eyes. The work was certainly an experience and one, it seems, in keeping with Aldeburgh's slightly eerie, detached and yet typically English appeal.

The Proms are perhaps better lauded for the range and quantity of their performances: semi-staged operas, early and contemporary music, chamber orchestras, choral concerts and world music. I have not yet been to the Proms (Cathcart Spring and BBC Summer), but with tickets from just £4 for the latter, and a programme spanning more than 70 concerts at the Royal Albert Hall, they seem a safe night out. Prommers no longer promenade the way they did in 1895, but I am glad to hear that in the arena and gallery they do at least stand, which always seems to me as good a way to listen to music as to sing it.

Glastonbury, the best-known rock festival, is the polar opposite of the Proms, not only for specialising in the other kind of music but for its cattle-style viewing post - a field, or more accurately (1997 'The Year of the Mud), a near-bog. One friend recalls: 'I slept with my wellies on, half of me out of the tent. When we tried to dance we would just start sinking, with only our arms flying around.'

Recent accusations of commercialisation at Glastonbury have allowed other music festivals to burgeon, enticing those who would prefer to dance with both legs and arms. Ans Guise has been tempting my palate for the Glade Festival in Newbury, which takes its name from Glastonbury's 'unofficial' underground trance 'Glade Stage' in Avalon Field. Mr Guise began Glade with Nick Ladd, Mark Parsons and Luke Piper in the summer of 2003. He describes it as 'an electronic music festival, but with the more way-out edge of electronic music: a 21st-century festival!'

This year's line-up includes AFX, Tristan, Squarepusher, System Seven and Hallucinogen (20% of last year's acts) as well as Sasha. Mr. Guise admits: 'People at this kind of festival can look scary to locals, with their dreadlocks and everything. But I think they were pleasantly surprised. One lady in the post office said that they all looked 'quite charming'.

To Ireland's Slane Festival, in August. 'The crowds usually reach about 80,000,' says Wolfe Conyngham, whose father, the Earl of Mount Charles, set up the festival at his family home, Slane Castle. 'Bob Dylan played in 1894. Last year we had Madonna. U2 have also played three times and recorded their album Unforgettable Fire here. When the Rolling Stones played the sky went red with balloons'. So who've we got this year? 'Snoop Dog and Eminem.' Now I know where I'll be heading.